Ever since I played with one of these when I was in primary school, I’ve always wanted one of my own. I finally got around to ordering one a few week ago, I had completely forgot about it and then today it surprised me when it arrived.
Unfortunately it is limited to only 16 commands, I may need to do some tweaking to it. Replace the buttons with a touch display, add some static memory, add a usb port, and make some software to program it remotely.
I have yet to dabble in wifi with electronics, that would be an interest next side project.
While trying to debug some signals from my analog to digital converter, my oscilloscope started to do some weird things due to the signal being very out of range of its capabilities. I was going to get one for my 5 year bonus, but instead I decided to buy a new oscilloscope now after I saw it was cheap on amazon.
I decided to get the Rigol DS1052E, it is only 50MHz, however a while back a software hack was found for making it think it was a different model so that it would unlock the 100MHz capability it had in hardware.
I tested this newly unlocked 100MHz on the composite signal of my Gamecube. One nice advantage of a digital oscilloscope is that I can now record and pause the input.
With the Wii U not supporting optical out, I have been forced to come up with another solution to amount of games consoles and limited HDMI / Optical Out ports I have on my ever failing HDMI switch.
So I decided to build my own, which I can upgrade as I need to, or replace and fix components that are failing. One thing I will require though is the ability to fast prototype PCBs, so I bought a printer and a lot of press and peel.
I wasn’t sure if it would be capable of getting the track thicknesses I require, so I printed out a test sheet on paper first with a bunch of chips with different pitches.
I’ve often seen these being made by other hobbyists and wanted to make one myself.
However my first attempt ended in disaster when I misread the resister value and ended up breaking a bunch of LEDs and didn’t want to go through the hassle of soldering them again.
A year later, I decided to make one for my girlfriend, that she could program with some software I would write.
This time I bought plenty of extra LEDs, and use my multimeter on my resisters first just to be extra sure.
With four rows completed, now the complicated task for soldering them together.
Each time I soldered a new row I tested the LEDs to be sure they were still functional, and that no short circuits had occurred.
With all the rows completed and working, I began working on the firmware for the microcontroller that would control that LEDs. It was simple enough to write and after tweaking the wait times, I managed to create pulse width modulation (the PIC chip I was using doesn’t support it in the way I’m using it).
I managed to get the PIC chip communicating with my laptop over USB, and here is a video of it working.
All I need to do now is write the software.
I recently found out that when a chip pin name has a line above it, that means the logic is active when the pin is low.
As shown in the diagram on the left for pin named SHDN. While all other digital input pins are active when high.